One year after writing about the scandal in Gucci, when Giannini had to leave the creative direction of the brand and hand it to Alessandro Michele, brings in the perfect moment to balance that decision’s consequences.
When we first heard of Alessandro Michele, almost no one knew his name, what was he really doing in the Fashion Industry, and more important, if he would be able of leading Gucci’s creative direction. Kering, the brand’s parent company, had played a secret weapon that left everybody expecting from the unexpected.
Comes up that Marco Bizzarri‘s guy was an uncut diamond that has increased the sales and the social media’s word-of-mouth of the brand. As Luxury Daily said, “Gucci led in word of mouth, placed eighth in Twitter and edged into Facebook’s tenth place”. For a business like Gucci, which posted revenues of around €3.5bn ($3.72 billion) last year, it’s not just about critical success. BoF revealed that Michele’s collections for Gucci are also having considerable commercial impact. So much so, that Marco Bizzarri has decided not to markdown Michele’s first two collections — Autumn/Winter 2015 women’s and men’s, including ready-to-wear, shoes and bags.
Alessandro Michele and Celebrities at the BFA dressed by Gucci
On top of the brand’s winnings, Alessandro Michele has been positioned like Olivier Rousteign, Ricardo Tisci and Jeremy Scott among those creative directors whose fame is almost equal to the brand’s one. On November 23, he even received the International Fashion Designer of the Year award at the 2015 British Fashion Awards.
What has Michele done to gain so much popularity? From my point of view, it was an intrinsic consequence from the way he was chosen for the role. But let’s admit that the designer has created a new Gucci, that mixes the best from the brand and the best from him, and which has as result the nerdy style.
We saw how Alessandro Michele started including signs of his style with the hairy loafers, but was with the Pre-Fall collection where he completely released his soul. Despite seeming a bit chaotic at first glance, is cheerful, clever and impressively cohesive. As with Gucci’s last few collections, every piece looked as if it could have been stolen from your granny’s closet and paired with whatever struck your fancy. He’s not ignoring the codes of the house, but he is twisting them in an eerie way. You’ll never feel the same about Gucci’s red and green stripe, the same you’ll never attribute the concept Sexy to the brand. Because, are there sexy nerds? Is “nerd” sexy at all?
Gucci Pre-Fall lookbook
Michele answered during the British Fashion Award in kind, acknowledging the unorthodoxy of his appointment as creative director of Gucci: “They had the courage and the foolish act to appoint an unknown guy like me as the creative director of one of the most influential fashion houses in the world,” Michele told the audience. “Over ten thousand thanks,” he added. “One for each Gucci employee all over the world”.
However, he has done the job so well this year that it makes it difficult to think that the top management of Kering and Gucci made a random decision, and that it was a surprise for Michele. So, my last words for Gucci are: Long live the nerdy style, because actually, is doing great 😉
Have a lovely week.